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What Did You Do To Your Car Today?

Started by Firm, Jan 05, 2025, 01:51 PM

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Blueprint

I started using it again after the pandemic with the stupid-high car theft rates, but yes Crosstreks aren't on thieves' radar much. I have another one I use with risky pressers, such as Hondayota trucks and SUV's.
Current rides: 2024 Mazda CX-90 PHEV GS-L, 2022 Subaru Crosstrek Limited, 1975 Triumph TR6 Teabagger Express

Firm

Dealt with some weird German engineering today. The ignition key for the SLK has been getting more difficult to turn recently, and got to the point where 80% of the time you'd have to jiggle the steering wheel a few times while attempting to turn the key before you could get the ignition to unlock. That got old pretty quick, so I started researching it.
Apparently a very common issue, and fortunately there's a free fix that involves removing the ignition lock assembly from the car, opening up a little hatch in the side of it, and removing a little spring and pin. Then re-install everything and it all work perfectly....no more jamming key, steering lock still works normally...Couldn't really find any explanation for what that little spring and pin were suppose to do, just weird Mercedes stuff I guess.  ::)
Current Fleet: 78 MGB, 81 380SL, 84 Camaro, 85 Trans Am, 96 Firebird, 96 Firebird Formula, 00 GMC Sonoma, 03 SLK320, 04 Maserati Spyder, 06 Escalade, 07 DTS, 10 XKR

Gurgie

Quote from: Firm on Sep 13, 2026, 10:26 PMDealt with some weird German engineering today. The ignition key for the SLK has been getting more difficult to turn recently, and got to the point where 80% of the time you'd have to jiggle the steering wheel a few times while attempting to turn the key before you could get the ignition to unlock. That got old pretty quick, so I started researching it.
Apparently a very common issue, and fortunately there's a free fix that involves removing the ignition lock assembly from the car, opening up a little hatch in the side of it, and removing a little spring and pin. Then re-install everything and it all work perfectly....no more jamming key, steering lock still works normally...Couldn't really find any explanation for what that little spring and pin were suppose to do, just weird Mercedes stuff I guess.  ::)

How hard was it to remove the ignition lock assembly? Is it all part of the tumbler? I'm gonna have to Google this one to see I think, LOL!! Great work as always though ;)
Current rides - 2025 Mazda CX-70 GT-P, 2006 Porsche 911

Tortoise

Removing an unnecessary component to solve a problem feels very German indeed!

Nice that it was an easy fix.

Firm

Here's the video I followed, it's a CrossFire, but exactly the same procedure. It's honestly not that bad of a job, worst part was that it started pouring when I was halfway through, and I was too stubborn to stop, so I did most of it inside the car with the door shut, lol. Putting the dash panels back together without scratching them (ours are light beige) also sucked.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2C6WC1yHM7c
Current Fleet: 78 MGB, 81 380SL, 84 Camaro, 85 Trans Am, 96 Firebird, 96 Firebird Formula, 00 GMC Sonoma, 03 SLK320, 04 Maserati Spyder, 06 Escalade, 07 DTS, 10 XKR

Firm

Quote from: Firm on Aug 08, 2026, 09:58 PMI've been dealing with an odd issue on the Green Firebird. It's done this as long as I've had it, so it's not new, but I've been using the car pretty regular and would like to address it....Maybe 50% of the time you'll go to crank it up and the starter will just click (one loud click), flick the key back and fourth 2-3 times and it'll fire up. The starter always sounds kinda labored when it does go too...

Previously I've load tested the battery and actually swapped in a new starter, no change. I thought maybe the battery cables were corroded inside increasing resistance, so today I swapped new cables in, which is kind of an annoying job due to the tight clearances in the LT1 engine bay, and cleaned all the main grounds. Still does the same thing  ::)

I am kinda outta ideas so the only thing I can think of is that when this engine was 'built' by a previous owner they upped the compression...It clearly has a cam in it, but I don't know what else has been done. If it is higher compression, then it might need a higher torque starter to crank it over properly. That, or there's something going on with the timing map for the 'start' sequence. A problem for another time I guess, lol. 

Got this addressed today finally....A few weeks back I dug up a copy of the manual for the MSD ignition box and learned of a setting that has a 'start retard', basically it retards the timing during cranking so it's easier to turn over...Typically only meaningful on high-comp race engines, but I gave it a try anyway and adjusted the setting. Maybe a slight improvement, but nothing noteworthy....

So today I Swapped in another new starter, this time a Duralast Reman so I could have lifetime warranty on it....Changing the starter in this car is a very irritating job and you're just barely (using a prybar and mallet) able to squeeze the starter in/out between the oil pan and the long-tube headers. Add 108F heat, and it's not a lot of fun. Fortunately, the car turns over like a dream now!!

My theory is....The car needs the 'start retard' mode active on the MSD box, and because it wasn't, it was putting excess strain on the starters. So the last new one I put in must have been damaged from that strain. Getting the MSD set right, and putting in a fresh starter, all seems well. Nice to be able to use the car again without worrying about whether it's going to start every time you shut it off.
Current Fleet: 78 MGB, 81 380SL, 84 Camaro, 85 Trans Am, 96 Firebird, 96 Firebird Formula, 00 GMC Sonoma, 03 SLK320, 04 Maserati Spyder, 06 Escalade, 07 DTS, 10 XKR